![fluke meter fluke meter](https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/4f6b230d-4820-4d28-a5d4-b3205a3fef84.f7d390c2d19259ff115b8b5e2b9c1fcc.jpeg)
- #Fluke meter cracked
- #Fluke meter manuals
- #Fluke meter serial number
- #Fluke meter serial
- #Fluke meter archive
Plus a few other dead ends I went down that I won’t embarrass myself by documenting here. For good measure though, C22 was removed and checked and it tested fine for capacitance and current leakage. Of course I had rather find any fault other than the custom Fluke device, so I looked a bit too hard for any other explanation. There is no such path in the input circuitry except for the RMS converter, which is disconnected when the switches are set to DCV.Īll of these clues point to the MAC chip itself as the source of the fault current. Pulling the positive input terminal of the 8060A to a voltage below ground requires a path to the negative supply voltage Vss. The residual offset voltage was negative.The current producing the offset was coming from the MAC side of R20. The residual offset voltage measured at the 8060A’s input jacks by another DMM (with the 8060A powered on) disappeared when R20 was removed.In retrospect, the previous exercise was mostly unnecessary because of two things: All this suggests the fault is a real, measurable (but tiny) offset current flowing somewhere it shouldn’t be, and not some digital counting error. Interestingly, the other meter reads essentially the same as the 8060A. Another multimeter bridged across the input jacks seems to load this offset down some and bring the reading closer to zero. With open inputs the 8060A will eventually settle on a reading of around -0.0150, sometimes more, sometimes less. Resistance measurements are 10% or more off. But higher ranges are considerably worse.
![fluke meter fluke meter](https://www.meterdigital.com/sites/default/files/foto/fluke_114_0.jpg)
![fluke meter fluke meter](https://www.globaltestsupply.com/images/products/cache/fluke/1587fc_kit/main/fluke-1587-kit-insulation-meter-kit-with-free-stuff-exclusive.jpg)
A test input of 1.9V DC in the 2V range shows a pretty good reading. But with no input, or even a shorted input, the display never seems to rest at or near zero, like it should. The meter boots up and passes its self-test! The LCD segments are solid. All major DC test points are now within acceptable limits. The MAC is now settled in its new socket and all the suspect capacitors have been replaced with good-quality Nichicons. A slight outward bend on pins 21 and 32 will hopefully provide enough contact for further testing. The socket will definitely have to be replaced, but waiting on a parts order puts quite a drag on the trouble-shooting process, so the socket gets scrubbed thoroughly with IPA and is allowed to dry.
#Fluke meter cracked
Pin 21 near C1 is cracked and will no longer make contact with the chip leg. Pin 32 near C12 has weakened to the point of failure, as one side has broken completely off. Removing the MAC chip completely reveals the extent of the damage. All other capacitors look and measure OK, but a complete re-cap will be in order. Lifting the device part of the way out reveals significant corrosion has wicked its way up some of the socket pins. This includes C1 and C12, both of which are very near the 40-pin socket for the MAC chip. Visual inspection reveals that two other capacitors have leaked significantly. Both measurements are not good, and at this point, this cap appears to be the cause of the faulty negative supply.Īfter finding the first cap that has leaked electrolyte, all other electrolytic caps are automatically suspect.
![fluke meter fluke meter](https://www.test-meter.co.uk/media/catalog/product/f/l/fluke-multimeter-115-wires-update_aqhkxeaiowdef05v.jpg)
It has an ESR of 69Ω, and actual capacitance measures 4.5μF. When removed, it’s obvious the cap has spewed its juice. My unit does not have that sub-assembly, having instead a 14-pin DIP RMS converter directly on the main PCB.Įxamining C21 closely reveals a rather dull crusty-looking solder joint on the bottom side of the PCB, which is indicative of the capacitor having leaked corrosive electrolyte at some point. The chief difference is the addition of an RMS converter sub-assembly.
#Fluke meter serial
The 1000V version refers to the lowest serial numbers, and going through it reveals a few minor differences, but it seems mostly accurate.
#Fluke meter manuals
A little research indicates that Fluke manufactured and sold this model well into the 90s, and these service manuals likely refer to the later revisions.
#Fluke meter serial number
There are two versions of the manual available (1000V and 300V), and unfortunately neither one seems to include the serial number of my unit.
#Fluke meter archive
The Fluke manual for this multimeter is downloadable from Fluke’s manual archive and contains full schematics and service information. Cleaning these improved the look of the LCD segments, but did not otherwise improve the functionality. The microprocessor daughter board has two elastomeric connectors, one for the LCD, and one back to the main board. So after the shield is removed, the accessible areas are dusted and given a cursory cleaning. The switch assemblies make it hard to fully clean the circuit board with IPA (isopropyl alcohol), which is usually step #1 in any restoration project.